I don't mean to hijack this thread but I highly recommend that Odyssey owners perform this vital maintenance job themselves when their van rolls over to the 90K mark or so. It is advised, when you feel that everything is installed correctly, that you turn the engine through to complete revolutions by hand, then check to make sure that the crank and cam marks still are aligned, and that the tension is still a right. Lining up the mark with the tensioner put it spot on. Basically, free play or bounce play should be about a quarter of an inch. Then, I check the deflection as accurately as I could using a straight edge and ruler to try to deflect the belt at its longest point between gears at what I estimated to be 5 pounds of force, deflecting one quarter of an inch. I (switching to my own technique, now,)matched the round mark that the belt tensioner left on the engine block when it was originally tightened with the new tensioner, aligning the tensioner to where you could not see the mark. When you install the new belt over the gears, match the exact same number of teeth on the belt between the points you marked, for ease of installation and accuracy. Then count the number of teeth between on the shorter side, toward the front of the car. When removing the belt, mark a tooth on the top of the cam gear and two adjacent teeth on the timing belt, then do the same at the bottom on the crank gear. There is one or two on the cam sprocket and one on the crankshaft pulley, and these must line up with the index marks on the head and block. ![]() If you know by how much it moved, try to move it back same amount. i think my favourite was when a friend managed to fill his x3 accent with diesel.still not sure how he pulled that off. I've got quite a few good stories of stupidity.some my fault, some not. keep that in mind and find ways to continually check yourself and you'll find that you aren't making errors anymore.or at least far less ![]() it's human nature to make errors like this. We all have our tricks to prevent errors. use your phone or a digital camera to take pics as you go if you're working on something complex. you can also mark these off once you have torqued each bolt correctly. easier than going through the entire set of instructions. to make life easier, i usually find all the torque values i need for a job and put them on one separate cheat sheet. print out the repair instructions and follow them step by step as you do the job, mark each step off as you go. that way i won't try to start it dry one day. i'll only remove them once i have put oil in the engine. i usually leave my keys on the seat while doing an oil change. even just a little sticker flag can remind you that you have yet to torque a bolt down. in your case, i'd remove the crank pulley and turn the bolt into the crank a few turns. once i pull a bolt and remove the part, i'll put the bolt back where i got it couple turns in. couple of thoughts to help prevent this from happening again: I'm glad to see that you're not discouraged! mistakes happen, learn from them and move on. that means that this is a repair manual straight from hyundai. ![]() this is straight from the old HMA website before it became pay to use. Here's a better idea than the haynes manuals:ĭev-Host - The Ultimate Free File Hosting / File Sharing ServiceĪnd its free. Is it ok to start the car after the timing belt is changed with the engine up on a jack and the engine mount removed on top and no accessory belts running?Īlso how do I know how tight the timing belt should be? But I would like to start it up before putting everything back together in case I have it too tight and it starts squealing like I've read about. This time I'm going to put together the bottom of the timing belt before starting the car. The donor car had front end damage and was only $250 but it turns out that it was much easier fixing the front end damage so now I'm gonna keep the donor car as my main car but it needs a timing belt!Ī couple questions before I start my second attempt. So this time around I have another elantra, same year, that I was going to pull the engine from and exchange it for the damaged one. Heres a link to my first post about the timing belt mess up: I know, I'm a complete dumbass but in my defense, a total DIY backyard mech. The first attempt was a disaster as the belt slipped off after I changed it because I didn't put the crank bolt back on. I get my second crack at changing a timing belt on a 2003 elantra.
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